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Long Tall Sally Student Discount
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Sign in. Home Discussions Workshop Market Broadcasts. Change language. Install Steam. Your Store. Store Home. Games Games. Software Software. Software Hub. Hardware Hardware. Community Hub. All Reviews:. Ubisoft - San Francisco. Popular user-defined tags for this product:. Maybe not. On sight ish. Solid E1 5b with BCT. Climbed in heavy rain. No friction whatsoever. I have to come again and do this properly in better weather. Great - hardest moves for me were off the ground.
Imagine crux at bulge though a bit scary on lead. Great feeling to come back and lead this after a few years of climbing with michaelbrookes. Nice climb with Adrian Ellis. Finally got this after falling off of it a couple months ago.
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Amazing climb! My favourite style of climbing and there was a lovely snowy view at the top. Technically not onsight as I came off the start as it was saturated from seepage. Would've been fine otherwise so I'm claiming it. Left foot popped off smear on upper section. Decked out from just above crux. Stupid placement of feet and needed more gear to be placed. Lessons learned. Annoyingly found the climb easy on second. Needs to be completed on lead. Went bouldering afterwards to settle nerves.
Techy bottom, slabby-bridgy top. Good route, was surprised that the start was as tricky as it was. The crux took some working out but was quite simple to execute. Needed some tight fromm Mike on this one! My first E1. I found it a struggle, yet, managed to get it clean.
Took three falls, first attempt at an E1 climb, albeit second. Really enjoyable little route, lots of thinking and intricate footwork involved. Looking forward to building up to this level on lead. Clean next time! What a great route! Lots of gear if your happy to stand around and place it! Hard start without gear. Quite well protected above. Good friction on this one still. Not so tall, but great! Glad I didn't have to find out if my gear would have held.
Lead with gear so bad it pushed me to finish it efficiently. If I'd have fallen all my gear would have popped. Not fit enough to second E grades any more, training required : with ashtond6. Second go. Sequence for first section was off balance. Thank The Lord above James failed to persuade me to lead it. Bouldered the bottom section up to the bulge as it was wet and wanted to know if I could do it with jmasson First bit was seeping but still ok! Was quite damp. Gave a few goes through out the day but didn't get much better!
You definitely need to place trust in friction past the bulge. Very obvious and attractive line. Fell off at the crux then repeated that section clean. Good gear. Lovely stuff. Fell on crux lowered pulled ropes and lead clean with deacon wet start variation with Paul Hy. Faffed around for ages before committing the crux. Very nice, but very reachy, with some sketchy footholds. Lead after watching Dan, so was betaed to the max. Even took just the gear he had placed, so no surprises, but still enjoyed the climb. Bit damp low down. Managed all the hard moves with lots of beta read: detailed instructions but shoulder still not good on the easy bit leading up to the bulge.
Had a bit of a struggle with the start and took a few attempts to get off the ground with Matthew Lally. A bit wet so a tad paranoid about the stretch from the smears. Brilliant route!
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Faffed around a bit at the start with sorting gear but found the crux ok. Jonny led this, after some justifiable faffing. I followed on an comfortingly tight rope! Feeling good and confident Great friction! A bit tough, probably need to get better with Mike Hope , Stoff. Fell off after lip trying to greedliy reach for pocket. I am not long or tall. First lead fall not resulting in a deck. Extremely harrowing even on the Shunt! No real rest anywhere. Tough moves on barely adequate holds introduce you to the final slab and the crux.
A crucial pebble on the left wall is all you have for a left foot hold. The right foot is held on the slab with 'faith' alone. A precarious stretch using the left hand in the finger layback slot in the crack to a tiny finger gaston for the right higher in the crack and a poor crimp on the left wall for the left hand. Use these to smear up and reach for a poor large pocket with the right hand. From here salvation is close as the crack widens above. Hard from start to finish. Proper E1! As a snowball warmup for Three Blind Mice.
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High crux still made it feel like a bit of a Solo. Hardest climb so far. Bit wet at the bottom so went up the left and traversed across with difficulty. Had to work on the difficult moves to get on the slab but got there in the end. Led clean with two bits of my own gear clipped having taken two falls, second one pretty big. Good small cam halfway up. Wet bottom section- would recommend waiting for a dry day if after the onsight.
Climbed with Jim's gear he had just led it , but placed some of my own anyway. Great climb. Good bridging but wouldn't fancy leading it. Sooooo close. Sat at the crux for ages laughing, then got my act together and made the move, cool climb with littlevic. Fell off the bottom section which was a bit wet but went back up and led it clean. Fell twice, half pulled on gear- generally shit assent- needs a better style in future with jimjimjim.
First E1 done on my Birthday. Scary, tenuous, almost fell off, talked myself up it. Remember being so psyched the first time,prob my second E1. Dont think I've improved as much as I like to think! The old calves were burning a bit after this bridging bad-boy! Quality though. Gear is just right. Moves not too bad. Snatched this great classic before the horrendous thunder storm hit on the walk out! The start being wet didn't aid initial confidence though!
Clipping M's gear with Marti BOOM with Paul38uk. Not so hard this time! Very wet to start and damp all over the top grove which made it quite interesting were it came to the faith in friction bit! Helping Loz on his way to routes with lozowen. Almost did as my first E1 last year but was wet, Thank god for that. Not a good first Extreme. Fell onto a micro cam on the second to last move. Found the whole ordeal rather stress full. The gear placements and he holds are often the same thing. I don't get why everyone loves it, thought it was fidley and awkward that probably just my bad technique with col3.
Really struggled with this, glad of the tight rope! Couldn't feel my fingers which didn't help!! I hate corner, crack and slab climbing so all 3 in one was bound to go wrong. Had to lower my second as he couldn't bridge due to a "clicky hip" with joe. Lovely route, bit tricky with a finger out of action First E1 on grit. Very hard start. After that gets progressively nicer with good delicate moves with Neil Pacey.
Found the start hard and unprotected, placed too much gear in the crux, no room for fingers, removed two pieces and found the move very precarious. Fantastic climbing. Used extend-a-nut technique! Climbed with JD. A very enjoyable route, and a great end to a very good day out. So happy to get this clean onsight! First E1. Wasn't even planning to look at it but Clisty suggested checking it out, which unsurprisingly led to an attempt. Although there isn't too much gear, what you do get is good. Personally I preferred nuts, the placements are good, didn't use any cams.
The crux is actually a step higher than you think - gaining the bulge is fine - getting fully established to make the move up to the big pocket is the tricky bit. Once you reach the pocket it's all over. Nice, thought provoking and delicate moves. If there was one more good bit of gear just above the bulge I would say it was HVS but, as it is, seems just about E1. Great little route. Bouldery bottom section to a rest and decent enough gear. Passed the bulge and placed several small cams. Rearranged my feet so I could stand up and place a small nut in the upper crack.
Pumped calves so reversed down to the good rest. Then went for it, Bridging is the way. Placed another nut in the upper crack. Ben, you score only 5 out of 10 for your "tight rope"! Enjoyed this climb Well protected Managed to get foot cramp half way up! A kid of around 12 led this after me with amazing style - respect! Came back to get it done, felt like onsight after so long but hey. Such a balancy and precise climb. Good fun but the feeling of im going to fall off at any moment does not let up untill the very end : with stvredmond.
Just plain amazing, went back below the bulge after placing a bit of gear and rope was tight so i'll call it dogged rather than clean onsight with Jess Horton , pete , Joel Brown.
Probably holding on too tight lower down. Climbed the wet start without any problems, took a little time surmounting the bulge, whacked in a nut and climbing to the top. A really satisfying climb! Great route, although the start was wet. Quite good, no definite crux imo, just sustained for the old calves! A great finish to the week, really hard first time round. Found hard and scary, alot of small cams are the way forward for this climb as I stuggled getting nuts into the crack. Struggled a little on the last few feet between footholds got there eventually.
Scary but nice! Got sequence wrong and fell off 1st go. Not a completely clean second, but certainly much better than an earlier attempt this year. Much bigger gear and much easier to place than expected. This would have been a fairer fight a few years ago. Loved this route the start was easier than i thought after reading comments but the Crux wasn't hard after i learned the sequence I loved the route felt abit harder than a 5b but then again easyish for an E1 so a fair grade.
Moves around the bulge were ace. Then very technical up the corner with good gear. First E1 Lead! I lead it with Andy belaying at which point he decided he wanted it as his first lead so Holly seconded. Didn't like the middle section when had to stand on right foot smear to reach a next left hand hold but overall very nice route. Seconded it straight after having lead it so Andy could lead it, not that I was complaining!
Very nice route! Was able to enjoy the climbing more and didn't find the smear as hard second time around with the rope above. Hard start and harder to get over the bulge, great route with good gear. Tried to lead it a few years back and bottled it. Lovely to finally get a good clean lead. Fell on a micro wire which some how held i did not have any micro cams and ran it out from the bulge to the top. Did third go. Lowering to the ground after each try with Alan Taylor and Poppy the dog.
Really nice moves with tom Awesome climb - awkward over the bulge. Wouldnt have liked to lead it! Awesome climb! On Ferdia's gear with ferdia. Martin's first route outdoor after 4 years of break. He struggled but made to the top! The starting move may be 5b good landing , but I felt the rest is a solid and reasonably protected HVS 5a. Lovely little route with a tricky seeping start.
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Bottom section was wet but didn't put us off! Bottom section ringing wet. Now i'm a real climber. Get your feet right and there's a full hands off rest to place the last bit of gear. Was harder than it looks as my gear kept popping out. Small cams or tiny rocks help. Great to get back on this climb which i led over 4 years ago. Easier and harder than i remember, bottom moves easy to underestimate. Great determined lead from Helen and a fitting end to the 09 trad season. Really ought to lead this one day. Damn well slipped off the first move this time because I wasn't concentrating!
It's not too difficult when you give the moves a little thought Good gear, nice moves. Unfortunatly the area was very crowded. Had one small rest and re-think. Refuse to label ascent as a 'dog'. Wicked route, one of the best I have done! Worth trying in the future as well protected. Too tired to do initial steep section - one for another day.
Absolutely Gorgeous! Worth every star. Crux not as hard as I thought it would be but I did have the advantage of a rope above. Gear looked good though; must come back to Lead this. An E1 with no fear. I did lots of high feet on the left wall. Also got a lovely small nut up high. Slippy feet for start, as was wet with water seeping out of rock.
Lovely route for first E1 and very pleasing. My first grit E1! Balancey moves above felt thin but secure. Careless at the bottom and slipped on seepage! Enjoyable, nice technical moves over the bulge. First Extreme Lead with Mr Wild. Lovely route, sums up everything that is good about grit. Felt quite soft, I found the start the tricky bit.
Tooooo warm to be climbing grit! Got careless and fell of the first moves. Coaching with Adrian Berry. What was I thinking - my 1st E1 - and it was wet! Seepage at the bottom through the starting moves, but suprised myself by being quite bold to the 1st protection at the bludge! Two falls trying to get through the bulge, and a worrying slip near the top. Mental note to head back and clean the route in the dry! Absolutely worth 3 stars Harder than it looked! Given RP since it took a couple of goes to get off the ground. Suprisingly hard getting over the bulge and a brilliant climb.
Thought that I had got it, fell off about a foot from the top. Right foot somehow popped out of the good pocket on the face. Gear at the nose held me as the gear halfway up the slab ripped, rushed placing it as was pumped. Good airtime with Mike. One of my first E1s and one of the best. Climbed with Phil with Phil. Horrible massively windy day.
Don't know why we were outside at all. Dragged myself up, numb before I'd even started but not as frozen as fred belaying at the top. Fell off before 1st gear. Felt desperate for the grade would NOT recommend as 1st E1! Wet start Getting over bulge bit awkward then padded up! Big fall when tried on the lead - almost decked! So put TR on it. No falls but a few rests on the rope.
Felt good getting to the top! Very little pro, took me a long time to manage the start. Getting over the bulge was easy, but getting up to the finish from there was poor - lots of Couple of tries at the starting move to work out what was usable within reach. Awesome route! Awesome route. Abit exciting in the wet, the bottom was soaking and forgot to dry my boots off below the bulge. A good one to point any 'hard core wall climbers' at, good footwork essential.